In a previous post, I wrote about many of the general characteristics of working with Corian as a pen making material. That post came about as a result of a project in which I decided to make a batch of 36 pens using Corian blanks and Slimline pen kits from two vendors: Woodcraft and Craft Supply USA. The kits were essentially identical, although there was an extremely slight difference in the length of the brass tubes. This difference had no effect in the assembly of the pens however as the blanks were mixed by accident although I had kept the blanks for each manufacturer separate initially. So goes one of the risks of a shared shop space. My motive in making this batch of pens was simply to use the kits. I had purchased them years before and as I had the kits and I had the Corian I went with it. I don’t have any more Slimline pen kits but I still have a great deal of Corian, so mission partially accomplished. In what will be a series of 9 consecutive posts, I intend to discuss in detail each discrete step in the process of making this batch of Corian pens. I hope you enjoy this in-depth look at the pen making process in general, and the use of Corian as a material in specific.
Preparing the Area and Myself for the Gluing Process
Now that we have cut the blanks, drilled the blanks, and burnished the brass, we are ready for the messiest part of the whole pen making process; gluing the brass tubes into the prepared blanks. I prepare for this process by laying out two sheets of wax paper on my work surface. In my shop, I have a fold down table made of MDF (medium-density fiberboard), which isn’t pretty but it serves the purpose by being a surface I don’t mind becoming fouled, inevitably, with glue.
Before doing anything else, I put on a pair of non-latex gloves to protect my hands from the glue. I don’t think the glue is harmful to the skin; I just don’t like the feeling of it being on my skin. I make certain that I have acetone to hand because it is the solvent that will dissolve any cyanoacrylate that ends up where it shouldn’t be. Acetone is sold along with the cyanoacrylate in small bottles but if you know what it is chemically it massively cheaper to buy it by the quart or gallon in the paint section of any hardware or home improvement store. I arrange my prepared blanks on the table to the right of the wax paper. I squeeze out a small pile of medium thickness cyanoacrylate onto one of the sheets of wax paper. My prepared brass blanks are held on a small rack with dowels that I have made for the purpose.
The Gluing Process in Action
Now, one by one, I grab a brass tube, roll it in the puddle of cyanoacrylate and then quickly insert it into the blank to the appropriate depth. Using my gloved fingers I wipe away any excess glue that oozes out of the bore hole. Because I am using medium thickness glue I have a few minutes to work with the brass tube to ensure perfect placement. Then, once the tube is in place, I set the now glued blank to the left side on the other piece of wax paper to allow it time to dry.
Gluing Supplies
If I am using wooded blanks of any type I first squirt some thin thickness cyanoacrylate into the bore hole while rotating the blank to coat the entire inside surface. I do this to close up any potential cracks or imperfections that might be present in a natural material like wood to help ensure stability during the turning process. However, with acrylics like Corian, I don’t think it is necessary as I have never yet discovered a crack or gap in any of the commercially prepared blanks I have used. It wouldn’t hurt anything to do it, but the disadvantage is that the very quick setting nature of the thin consistency cyanoacrylate means that if you don’t get the brass tube positioned exactly correctly immediately, you may end up with a misplaced tube you can’t move and the blank could be lost. I’ve only ever had it happen once, but just a warning albeit for an unlikely situation.
Brands of Cyanoacrylate
There are many brands of cyanoacrylate on the market and I can’t imagine it matters much which one you choose to use. I use what is available from whichever vendor I happen to be shopping with. I tend to keep a good stock on hand from buying whenever there is a sale. If you need a quick supply, bear in mind that cyanoacrylate cannot be shipped via air, so plan ahead if you don’t have a local source.
Careful Storage
Once the bottle is opened you MUST keep it airtight by carefully replacing the original cap or using some other air excluding closure device. Cyanoacrylate cures, or hardens, upon exposure to air and it is a costly waste to allow an entire bottle to harden up into a useless lump because you didn’t seal it properly.
Spray the Accelerator
Once all the blanks have been glued, I spray a shot of cyanoacrylate accelerator on both ends of the blanks to quickly dry any overflow residue that might be present. If I notice any gross amounts of glue inside the tubes, I use a long handle cotton swab, such as those shown, soaked in acetone, and clean it out before it gets too hard. This will make the next step, end milling, easier and reduces potential problems. I allow the blanks several hours to dry completely before moving on with the next step. If the tubes are not fully set up and dry they can be dislocated during the end milling process.
While I am using the accelerator, I also spray the wax paper with it to immediately harden any overflow or any remaining in the pile I used to roll the brass tubes in. I do this because cyanoacrylate is very slow to harden on wax, if it will at all, and I don’t want the glue to drip off onto other things in the waste can, including the can itself. It is important to hold the paper off the table top immediately after spraying the accelerator onto the waste glue on the wax paper because the reaction between the glue and the accelerator generates a good amount of heat and that can melt the wax paper to your table top, creating an unnecessary mess if not done carefully. The glue will fume liberally when you spray large quantities of it with accelerator so be careful not to breath the fumes.
Ventilation, Airflow and Accidents
Ensure that you have good ventilation when using cyanoacrylate as the fumes can be intensely irritating to the mucous membranes of the nose and throat. If you accidentally get the cyanoacrylate on your skin, or if you bond your skin to itself, don’t panic, don’t try pull the skin apart as you will tear it. Soak the affected area in acetone and gently and slow rub and pull the affected parts away from each other as the acetone dissolves the adhesive. If you get the cyanoacrylate in our eyes, seek medical attention immediately. I have worked with cyanoacrylate countless times and have never had a serious accident, but it always pays to never allow yourself to become cavalier and careless based on past successes. Patience and caution are generally rewarded with good outcomes!
Next Steps
Now that the messy gluing is completed, it is time for the next and final step before the actual turning of the blanks on the lathe: end milling and squaring.