{"id":1944,"date":"2016-05-18T04:00:25","date_gmt":"2016-05-18T08:00:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.woodturningpens.com\/?p=1944"},"modified":"2016-04-08T12:18:40","modified_gmt":"2016-04-08T16:18:40","slug":"1944-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.woodturningpens.com\/1944-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Hackberry"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Geographical Distribution<\/strong><\/h2>\n

The wood commonly referred to as Hackberry is known to botanists as Celtis occidentalis<\/em>.  C. occidentalis<\/em> is widely distributed in the eastern United States from the southern New England States through central New York west in southern Ontario to North and South Dakota. Northern outliers are found in southern Quebec, western Ontario, southern Manitoba, and southeastern Wyoming. The range extends south from western Nebraska to northeastern Colorado and northwestern Texas, then east to Arkansas, Tennessee, and North Carolina, with scattered occurrences in Mississippi, Alabama, and Georgia.<\/p>\n

While that all seems clear enough, in the lumber trade, “Hackberry” can also, and in its native range frequently does, include C. laevigata<\/em>, a closely related species that does, however, have a different, although frequently overlapping, native range.  C. laevigata<\/em> ranges south from southeastern Virginia to southern Florida, west to central Texas and northeastern Mexico, and north to western Oklahoma, southern Kansas, Missouri, southern Illinois, southern Indiana, and western Kentucky. It is local in Maryland, the Rio Grande Valley, and northeastern Mexico.  Its range overlaps the southern part of the range of C. occidentalis<\/em>.<\/p>\n

In distinguishing between the two species, common names might provide help in that C. occidentalis<\/em> is commonly known as common hackberry, sugarberry, nettletree, beaverwood, northern hackberry, and American hackberry.  C laevigata<\/em> is commonly known as sugarberry, sugar hackberry, hackberry, Texas sugarberry, southern hackberry, and lowland hackberry.<\/p>\n

\"Small

Small Hackberry Interior<\/p><\/div>\n

Outside of common name applications, which vary widely depending on geographic location and which are, after all, common and not scientific names, other means of identification rely on knowing where the wood was harvested because while the native ranges of the two species do overlap in the extreme southern\/northern ranges, the most commonly occurring regional woods are the one most likely to be harvested in any given area.  Granted, it is frequently impossible to know with any certainty exactly where a wood sample was harvested in any case.  And, if one considers the wide proliferation of Celtis sp<\/em>. trees as shade giving ornamentals, then even the region or location of harvest can be misleading.<\/p>\n

Fortunately for woodworkers the distinction rarely matters as the two species share most all of the characteristics that matter when using the wood itself as opposed to the entire tree.  Both trees make excellent shade trees as well as providing abundant fruit for a variety of wild species, especially birds, but C. laevigata<\/em>, is more widely planted outside its native range in the western parts of North America although C. occidentalis <\/em>is more commonly planted in Midwestern cities because of its greater tolerance of varying soil conditions.<\/p>\n

For our purposes as wood turners, the exact species identification is of no great relevance which is helpful because most of my examples of Celtis sp<\/em>. sold as “Hackberry” originated in either Missouri, where both species are common, or in the Carolinas where either species is possible although C. laevigata <\/em>would be significantly more likely.  Perhaps I have both species and am just unaware of it but, regardless, as I noted, it doesn’t ultimately matter for our purposes.<\/p>\n

From this point onward, for sake of simplicity and common understanding, I will refer to both C. laevigata <\/em>and C. occidentalis <\/em>simply as Hackberry.<\/p>\n

General Characteristics<\/strong><\/h2>\n

The heartwood of Hackberry is usually a light brown to gray color while the highly contrasting sapwood is a light yellow color.  Because of the width of the sapwood relative to the heartwood it is quite common for many turning blanks to be composed of mostly, if not entirely, sapwood.<\/p>\n

Hackberry is quite likely to very quickly become discolored by fungal staining which often causes a bluish coloration, although other colors are possible depending on the species of fungi which attack, if the wood is not processed and dried immediately.  However, in many instances, this coloration, known in woodworking circles as “spalting,” is desirable and increases prices when it occurs.<\/p>\n

\"Two

Two Small Hackberry Bowls<\/p><\/div>\n

Overall, Hackberry most closely resembles Fraxinus sp<\/em>. (Ash)<\/a> and it is sometimes used as a substitute for Ash in some decorative applications where hardness and strength are not required.<\/p>\n

The grain of Hackberry samples is usually straight although slightly interlocked grain does occur occasionally.<\/p>\n

The overall texture is coarse and uneven until the wood is heavily processed and finished.  This is quite common in woods of this extreme softness.<\/p>\n

The end-grain of Hackberry displays a ring-porous pattern with large to very large earlywood pores and small to medium latewood pores that appear in bands.  Pores of this size and frequent occurrence are likely to require filling to achieve a completely smooth endgrain appearance and feel.  Fortunately for our purposes, this is not necessary when turning provided that one has a good measure of patience when final sanding the pieces.<\/p>\n

Hackberry is not a good choice for exterior applications as it is non-durable to outright perishable in terms of resistance to fungal rot.  Hackberry is also susceptible to insect attack.<\/p>\n

As previously noted, Hackberry is also commonly discolored by fungi infestation resulting in a coloration and pattern commonly known among woodworkers as “spalt.”<\/p>\n

Spalted Hackberry<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Spalted Hakberry is a not distinct species of Hackberry but is instead a general description of any type of Hackberry, and other woods as well, commonly Maple, that has been allowed to begin the initial stages of decay, and then subsequently dried. The drying prevents further decay from occurring. The partial decay, called spalting, gives the wood dark contrasting lines and streaks where fungus has begun to attack the wood.  If the wood has been rescued from the spalting process at the right time, the lumber should still be sound and usable, with little to no soft spots or rotten wood.<\/p>\n

\"Two

Two Small Hackberry Bowls<\/p><\/div>\n

While partially rotten wood might not sound appealing, don’t judge until you’ve seen it. The dark brown or even black lines and streaks add a great deal of interest to wood which is otherwise very pale and often plain.<\/p>\n

Some examples of spalted Hackberry are “stabilized.” This refers to a process by which spalted material is infused with a polymer under very high pressure. This process allows for wood that is otherwise too soft or even rotten to be safely used to be turned into a highly stable matrix. Some users and consumers might not like the inescapable fact that a “stabilized” material is at least to some degree plastic. Sometimes the stabilization polymer is highly colored although this is usually only seen with pen blank sized pieces.<\/p>\n

Working Characteristics<\/strong><\/h2>\n

In general, Hackberry works well when using both hand and machined powered tools.  That said, pieces of Hackberry that have knots or sections of interlocked grain can present challenges during machine operations, especially plane procedures, but this is commonly true of woods with these features and the usual solutions of extremely sharp tools wielded with patience will usually prevail.<\/p>\n

Hackberry is reported to respond superbly to steam bending procedures.<\/p>\n

Hackberry also glues, stains, and finishes well and these characteristics allow it to be used as a lower priced mimic in applications where the wood is painted or stained to more closely match the coloration of other woods, including some that might be endangered or restricted in trade.<\/p>\n

\"Two

Two Small Hackberry Bowls<\/p><\/div>\n

Most relevant for our purposes here though, Hackberry is known to be an excellent turning wood.<\/p>\n

Hackberry is reported to have an odor when freshly cut or worked and this odor is described by some as being mild while others find it extremely unpleasant.  It isn’t clear if the odor derives exclusively from the wood itself or if the commonly present fungi contribute to, or completely constitutes, the smell.  Regardless of the origin, the odor is stronger in green wood than in completely dried material, so if the odor really gets to you, try drying your Hackberry first.<\/p>\n

Pricing and Availability<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Hackberry is a wood that is commonly available in its native range but it lacks compelling characteristics that would make it valuable enough to export, so its availability and pricing will reflect the location of the purchaser.  This is often the case with woods that are considered “hobby” or “utility” woods; in other words woods that can be easily substituted with cheaper local alternatives.  That said, Hackberry tends to be readily available in the eastern United States but rarely if ever seen in the Rocky Mountain states or further west.<\/p>\n

I always recommend both West Penn Hardwoods<\/a> and Bell Forest Products<\/a> as excellent sources of both domestic and exotic hardwoods.  I have had multiple dealings with both vendors and have always been very satisfied.<\/p>\n

Unfortunately, neither of those favored vendors is currently offering Hackberry.<\/p>\n

\"Hackberry

Hackberry Platter Side<\/p><\/div>\n

I also do significant business with two relatively local merchants who specialize in the hardwoods of the southern United States and both have at different times offered Hackberry.  I have had excellent experiences with both of these vendors as well.<\/p>\n

The first vendor is NC Wood<\/a>, based, as the name implies, in nearby North Carolina and the second are the gentlemen over at Got Wood?<\/a> in, also nearby, South Carolina.<\/p>\n

At this time, NC Wood is only offering spindle blanks of Hackberry, 3”x3”x12” which are excellent for substantial salt\/pepper mills or for other vase or spindle projects but not useful for bowl making.<\/p>\n

The guys over at GotWood are offering a large array of both spindle and bowl blank sizes of Hackberry.  Bowl blank sizes range from 4” round by 2” thick up to a much more generous 10”x2” platter blank with 8 other sizes in between.  The most expensive bowl blank is only $11.56 (for a large 8”x4” bowl blank) making Hackberry an excellent value wood for the size.  Spindles run in size from 2”x2”x6” up to 3”x3”x12” with two sizes in between with a top price of $4.88, a much better bargain that those currently offered by NC Wood to be honest.<\/p>\n

In addition, GotWood is offering a rare find, a kiln dried Hackberry bowl blank of a good size, 8”x2” for an excellent price of $11.56.  But with only one in stock and Hackberry of this size rarely available in kiln dried condition, don’t count on it being available for long.<\/p>\n

While they don’t currently stock any Hackberry, I would like to mention one additional vendor with whom I have had several very positive experiences, WoodTurningz<\/a> of Indiana.  Despite the cutesy name, which tends to annoy me, this company does offer a decent selection of bowl blanks although the focus of their business seems to be pen making.  I have found a few species from this outfit which I have not found from any other vendor.  They provided me with good products and excellent service so I can certainly recommend them.<\/p>\n

\"Hackberry

Hackberry Platter Bottom<\/p><\/div>\n

Woodfinder <\/a>is an excellent website that is dedicated to advertising wood dealers.  In your search for Hackberry, this can be an invaluable resource provided you use multiple search terms to capture all the possible listings.  I can’t speak to the quality of any of the listed dealers, but Woodfinder does have the advantage of allowing searches to be performed based on location which might allow an interested buyer to visit a listed wood dealer in person to hand pick pieces at a comfortable price.<\/p>\n

A significant problem with using Woodfinder is that many vendors are listed for woods that, upon further investigation, they do not offer.  I don’t know if perhaps once they did and they didn’t update their listings or if some vendors use a standardized list of woods that include most everything conceivable with the idea that once you land on their page you will find something you want to buy even if you didn’t know it beforehand.  It happens to me all the time!<\/p>\n

Uses<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Hackberry is primarily an utility wood used for function and form instead of appearance in its native areas.  It commonly finds application in upholstered furniture framing as well as in making boxes and crates.  Pieces of Hackberry that display attractive spalted patterns may be used as veneer wood.  Hackberry is also popular for making turned objects such as bowls, vases, spice mills, and similar items.  However Hackberry truly shines when it comes to steam bent items, especially in higher end furniture due to the fact that Hackberry is said to be one of the absolute finest of all steam bendable woods that are natively available in the eastern parts of North America.<\/p>\n

\"Small

Small Hackberry<\/p><\/div>\n

Sustainability<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Hackberry is not listed as being in any way threatened or endangered by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) Appendices<\/a> nor does it appear on the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Hackberry is not subject to special restrictions by any United States government agency.<\/p>\n

I realize that inherent in working with wood is the killing of a part of the natural world that may be slow to return and if I become deeply concerned about this fact, I will have to find a new hobby.  I hope that such a time does not come to pass or at least not any time soon.  I am also very confident that the vendor from whom I purchased my stocks of Hackberry sourced their material legally and responsibly.  In part because I am concerned about legally and responsibly obtained wood, I am reluctant to buy from sellers outside of well-established and known vendors.  I am highly unlikely, for example, to purchase exotic wood from auction sites, such as Ebay, because of uncertain sourcing and documentation, as well as the potential, even likelihood, of material being misidentified in order to achieve a higher selling price.<\/p>\n

However, due to the commercial scarcity of some domestic woods, resorting to auction sites such as Ebay <\/a>or Etsy <\/a>may be the only way to obtain some desirable domestic, or in some cases exotic imported, species that are not routinely commercially harvested.  The potential risks of buying in these marketplaces have to be balanced against the desire to work with a specific species of wood.  That is inherently an individual decision.<\/p>\n

\"Small

Small Hackberry Bottom<\/p><\/div>\n

I also realize that many, if not most, wood workers do not have endangered species lists memorized, therefore I think it worthwhile and important to do even a small amount of research before purchasing any lumber, domestic as well as imported, to be certain of the potential impact you are having, even in a small way, on threatened or endangered populations.  This information is easy to come by and takes only minutes to locate through any Internet search engine, including those you can access on your phone as you are standing in the lumber yard or store.  Unfortunately, you simply cannot count on a vendor to tell you a product they are selling is endangered.<\/p>\n

Health Hazards<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Hackberry has been reported to cause skin irritation in some people.  That being said, this reaction does not occur in every user so while caution is, as always, recommended, many users experience no adverse effects whatsoever.<\/p>\n

In addition, the long-term negative effects of exposure to sawdust of any species are well documented.<\/p>\n

It is important to remember that although many people may, or may not, be sensitive to any given wood, the only experience that truly counts is your own, so use reported side effects as guidance but not as a substitute for cautious and safe practices.<\/p>\n

Appropriate protective equipment is therefore always recommended when working with this, or any other, wood, exotic or domestic, unless you have worked with the species before and are certain you are not sensitive to it.<\/p>\n

Complete information about health hazards <\/a>associated with a wide variety of exotic hardwoods is available from The Wood Database<\/a>.  Additional information about how to best use a dust collection system and personal protective equipment, such as respirators, can also be found through this excellent and comprehensive resource<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Fortunately, I experienced no negative side effects when working with Hackberry.<\/p>\n

My Personal Experiences<\/strong><\/h2>\n

I have worked with Hackberry in the past and my initial experience with the wood is detailed in this earlier post<\/a>.<\/p>\n

As I noted at that time, Hackberry is quite soft so while it cuts quite easily it does not cut cleanly, especially on the cross grain areas and areas of significant spalting where fairly massive tear out was the norm.  In addition, Hackberry can be quite weak, especially along spalt lines, so beware that it can, and in more than one instance when I was working with multiple different pieces, did, break and crack under most any stress including the pressure exerted when using a chuck in expansion mode.  If I was to work with Hackberry in the future I would most likely use chucks strictly in contraction mode to help prevent this problem.<\/p>\n

Personally I found the odor of Hackberry, even with dried samples, to be quite strong and extremely unpleasant such that I can’t quite imagine how much stronger the odor would be if the wood were wet.<\/p>\n

I purchased my several pieces of Hackberry while they were still green and waxed and allowed them to dry over time.  They seemed to dry quite easily with no cracking, or checking as it is called amongst woodworkers, and fairly minimal contraction as well.<\/p>\n

With the Hackberry being so soft it also sanded out very quickly and easily although not evenly.  Some areas of the wood seemed to sand far faster than other areas and I could never completely identify the difference between the two zones which seemed fairly confluent and not at all well-defined.  This characteristic, repeated over several samples of Hackberry, left the sanded pieces still feeling distinctly lumpy to me and I was not completely satisfied with this aspect of the material.<\/p>\n

\"Hackberry

Hackberry Platter Interior<\/p><\/div>\n

I have long been, and continue to be, a dedicated fan and user of the Easy Wood Tool<\/a> line and I did use these tools when working with the Hackberry.  However, given the extremely rough cut, especially on the cross-grain areas, I decided to try more traditional wood turning tools, such as bowl gouges<\/a>, to attempt to achieve a smoother cut that would help to reduce the amount of sanding time required.  I figured that with Hackberry being so soft that if the experiment were a bomb it wouldn’t be too difficult to repair any damage and it also presented a fair test of claims that a gouge angle of cut would provide a nicer finish than anything possible with the inherently scraping design of the Easy Wood Tool products that have the effect of lifting the grain instead of shear cutting across the grain.<\/p>\n

So, I pulled my gouges out from a dusty drawer, sharpened them a bit (the need for relatively frequent sharpening was and is a key reason I prefer the replaceable cutters of the Easy Wood Tools) and hoped that I remembered how to hold and use these traditional tool shapes.  The result was a MUCH smoother cut finish with the bowl gouge than either of the Easy Wood Tool shapes could provide and this experiment has led me to revisit my more traditional tools in general.  I have not, and cannot imagine, completely abandoning the Easy Wood Tools and I still use them extensively, but I am slowly but certainly working more and more with the traditional gouges as I continue my development as a wood turner.<\/p>\n

Some of the cut and sanded Hackberry pieces finished just fine with liquid Shellawax <\/a>while other pieces finished poorly due to some areas of the wood absorbing significantly more of the finish than other areas which create a splotchy appearance on some pieces.  It seemed to me that areas of cross grain and significant spalting were more absorptive than other areas and I would imagine that this has to do with the different anatomy of the wood in those areas.  This splotchy finish effect is not entirely uncommon among various woods, most infamously in Acer sp<\/em>. (Maple)<\/a> and in the future I would probably try using a sanding sealer, such as medium cut shellac, before applying the final finish, although I don’t know if that would help given that Shellawax is a shellac-based finish to begin with and I am not confident that a sealer wouldn’t suffer from the same different absorption problems, but the only way to know is to try it.  Hackberry is priced such that experiments using it are not cost prohibitive in terms of materials.<\/p>\n

I have mixed feelings about Hackberry.  Some of the smaller pieces presented trouble beyond what I thought the appearance of the wood warranted but some of the larger pieces, especially the one kiln-dried piece that I worked with, turned and finished quite nicely.  I think the lesson therein is that although different samples may be of the same genus and species, there is always inherent variability amongst samples and one piece of Hackberry may behave in significantly different ways than another, even if from the same tree.  I will probably use Hackberry again in limited quantities because I greatly enjoy the sharp contrast between the almost white wood and the black spalting that is so commonly found in the wood.  At its absolute best a strongly spalted piece of Hackberry can easily remind me of the much more expensive and difficult to find Diospyros malabarica<\/em> (Black and White Ebony)<\/a> from Southeast Asia.  I wouldn’t say that Hackberry is my new favorite wood but I can’t imagine that I will banish it from the shop anytime soon either.<\/p>\n

As always, I wish all my readers a great experience in whatever their wood working interests happen to be and to those who like working with lathes especially, do a good turn today!<\/p>\n<\/body><\/html>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

As I noted at that time, Hackberry is quite soft so while it cuts quite easily it does not cut cleanly, especially on the cross grain areas and areas of significant spalting where fairly massive tear out was the norm. In addition, Hackberry can be quite weak, especially along spalt lines, so beware that it can, and in more than one instance when I was working with multiple different pieces, did, break and crack under most any stress including the pressure exerted when using a chuck in expansion mode. If I was to work with Hackberry in the future I would most likely use chucks strictly in contraction mode to help prevent this problem.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":175,"featured_media":1945,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[128,138,139,130],"tags":[154,171,181,183,200,204,210,217,239,240,241,247],"yoast_head":"\nHackberry - Wood Turning Pens ..<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"In this post we will discuss the pros and cons of working with a wood local the eastern United States, Hackberry, a relatively soft wood often with spalting\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.woodturningpens.com\/1944-2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Hackberry - 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