{"id":2298,"date":"2017-05-08T04:00:23","date_gmt":"2017-05-08T08:00:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.woodturningpens.com\/?p=2298"},"modified":"2017-02-23T15:34:53","modified_gmt":"2017-02-23T20:34:53","slug":"small-new-sycamore-bowl","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.woodturningpens.com\/small-new-sycamore-bowl\/","title":{"rendered":"Small New Sycamore Bowl"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
I have covered all of the usual bases about Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis<\/em>) in a post from March 2016<\/a>, so I won’t repeat that information here.<\/p>\n This project was another go at the green turning of Sycamore and regular readers may recall that my first pass at this process<\/a> was not a resounding success because the method I used, storing the rough turned blank in a paper bag of shavings to dry and distort through water loss to final size, predictably resulted in a major crack, or check.<\/p>\n This time I used a different method which involved coating the rough turned piece with Anchor Seal<\/a>, a wax emulsion usually used in lumber yards and at timber mills to coat the end grain sections of dimensional lumber to prevent checking, but which works equally well, albeit in much smaller quantities, for controlling moisture loss from rough turned bowl blanks. I discussed this process at some length in the post immediately preceding this one so I won’t repeat it here. If you have trouble locating it, simply search the site for a reference to Bradford Pear (I can’t link to it because it isn’t published just yet).<\/p>\n