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$\"Tree$

Tree Saver<\/p><\/div>\n

A green wood blank is turned the same as any other blank but you are aiming to leave behind at least 10% of the material for final cutting. So, in a 10″ blank, you would leave the walls at at least one inch thickness. I use my regular Easy Wood Tools for the turning process and held the blanks in the my standard Nova Chucks. Because the wood is green your tools and lathe can end up wet. My Robust American Beauty lathe has stainless steel beds that won’t rust when using green wood, by design, but not all lathes have this feature. If your lathe bed is not rust proof, dry it thoroughly. Do this other tools you may use in the green turning process, including bandsaw and turning tools. To facilitate drying, I took the cutters off all Easy Wood Tools to prevent rusting of the set screws. If you are doing a lot of green turning, coat the screws in beeswax, available at any woodworking store, before assembly.<\/p>\n

Once the rough bowl is finished, it must be preserved. There are many ways to do this. Plain latex paint will work, shellac works, wax works, diluted white or wood glue works, or you can use any of several commercial products designed for the purpose of slowing the drying of green wood. Anchor Seal is probably the best known of these, bit I used a product sold as Tree Saver Green Wood Sealer, marketed by Craft Supply USA, which as it turns out, is really just a gallon of white Elmer’s type glue that was dyed green. Live and learn. A gallon of glue costs a great deal less than the advertised product.<\/p>\n

$\"\"$

Anchor Seal Classic<\/p><\/div>\n

Regardless of what you use, the blank must be thoroughly coated and sealed. You could risk just sealing the end grain as that is where more water loss with occur, but I coat the entire piece to be as safe as possible.<\/p>\n

As you might imagine, this gets to be a somewhat involved and messy process. The way I handle that is to batch green blanks, in this case five blanks, all turned at once and then coated and stored. In this way, the effort is less burdensome than doing one blank at a time.<\/p>\n

Now you wait for the blank to, ideally, slowly dry without checking. You could use a moisture meter to gauge dryness but most moisture meters only measure surface water and although some can measure water in the center of a blank, you have to drive essentially a nail into the blank which would most likely destroy it for turning purposes. So, instead, I use the weight system introduced to me by Dad. Once the sealant has dried, weigh each blank and record the weight and date either on the blank or on a piece of paper you can keep inside the blank. Weigh every month or so and record the weight. It should drop steadily. Once you have the same weight two months in a row the blank is dry and ready for final turning.<\/p>\n

Final turning is essentially the same as turning any dry blank, but remember that these blanks will have warped to varying degrees as each wood has different rates and extents of movement. For example, Bocote moved so little that I could barely detect it whereas Persimmon moved so much as to make final turning very challenging. So, I always mount between centers first, clean up the rear divot, and then turn as usual, exercising extra patience since it will be out of round to some extent. This movement and the need to round the blank again is the reason we leave 10% of the original material. It gives sufficient material to offset that which will be lost in the finish process.<\/p>\n

$\"Bocote$

Bocote Side View<\/p><\/div>\n

Green turning takes some extra time, some extra materials, and patience but it is a technique worth becoming familiar with. Most all turning blanks are sold in some state of greenness and while they are also usually waxed or otherwise preserved, the waiting time for a full blank to dry is much longer than a rough turned piece. And, as green wood cuts so easily it is faster to remove the vast bulk of extra wood material and then only deal with the finishing cuts with the harder to work with dry wood. I encourage all wood workers to give green turning a try.<\/p>\n

$\"Cherry$

Cherry and Holly Green Turns<\/p><\/div>\n

As regards the woods themselves, I have worked with Cherry a great deal and have written about that elsewhere<\/a>. I have only worked with Holly in very small pieces such as pen blanks so finish turning it in a bowl size will be a new adventure that I will write about here when the time comes.<\/p>\n

Whatever you do in the shop today, have a good turn doing it.<\/p>\n<\/body><\/html>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"