More Green Turned Cherry Bowls - Wood Turning Pens ..<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.woodturningpens.com\/more-green-turned-cherry-bowls\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"More Green Turned Cherry Bowls - Wood Turning Pens ..\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I’ve written several times in the past about the green turning technique and process, most explicitly in this post. My consensus in the past seems to be that I recognize the value of green turning techniques but I have not enjoyed the actual process of finishing green turned bowls. Despite this lack of pleasure, I have continued to use the process because the reality remains that the VAST majority of turning blanks sold are some degree of green. 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Green Turned Cherry Finished (the two bowls lower left had fatal flaws but I photographed them anyway before recycling them)<\/p><\/div>\n

Lesson number one: Leave PLENTY of material for final turning. Two of the blanks failed because they became too thin. In the previous post referenced above I quote the 10% rule which I acquired from Craft Supply USA, i.e. leave 10% of the original diameter, or 1″ for a 10″ blank for example. I would dispute this estimation. I lost one of the seven because I cut it too thin although I was well within the 10% rule. The reality is that some wood species move more than others when drying and unless you have experience green turning a certain species you might not know how much movement to expect. And, the wetter your blank is the more it will move when drying and you have essentially no way to know how wet the blank is until you start to turn it. From experience, I know that Bocote and Cedar move hardly at all, Black Cherry moves a good deal more, Holly moves even more, and Persimmon moves the most of the woods I have green turned. There is a way to have some idea about movement expectations with wood you haven’t tried before and that is to consult the Wood Database<\/a>. The Wood Database will give radial, tangential, and volumetric shrinkage rates, and tangential to radial ratios, for hundreds of woods. Black Cherry for example has a radial shrinkage of 3.7%, tangential of 7.1%, and volumetric of 11.5% with a T\/R Ratio of 1.9. Holly has a volumetric of 16.9%, while Persimmon has a shocking volumetric shrinkage of 19.1%. On the opposite end, Eastern Red Cedar has a volumetric shrinkage of 7.8%. If you have experience with one wood you can compare a new wood to a known and have some sense of how much it will move comparatively. The average volumetric shrinkage percentage is between 9% and 15%. So, true to my experience Holly and Persimmon move a lot more than most woods and this is a known phenomenon. For a detailed explanation of these concepts refer here<\/a>. My point being that if I know a species will move more I probably want to leave more material, perhaps more than 10%, when I green turn it.<\/p>\n

Lesson Number Two: Wood is sometimes an imperfect material. As I have often said, if you want consistent uniformity of material stick with injection molded plastics. Wood is variable and sometimes flaws exist inside that you cannot see on the outside and have no way of knowing about until it is too late. One of the blanks failed because there was a crack in the interior, not visible from the outside at all, that occurred in the bottom of an almost finished piece which was otherwise perfect. It happens.<\/p>\n

Lesson Number Three: Make VERY light cuts until you get to round again. Two of the blanks failed, in one case in part because it was too thin in the wall, because of a catch during the cleaning up process in the interior. Rounding the bottom (yes it shrinks and moves in that direction too although not a great deal) and the exterior is fairly simple compared to the forces at play when rounding the interior and this is especially problematic if your walls are getting thin. In one case the blank had green turned very rough with at least one catch and lots of chunky material loss which made it all too easy to have a fatal catch when trying to clean up the mess from the green turning. In the second case, the blank was small and the warping was extreme for such a small size. The walls on the thinnest sides were close to failure when a catch just blew one side out completely. I don’t know that the small blank ever could have survived but I think the bigger one could have, although I think it would have been a nightmare to sand, had I been more careful about working around areas that had been problematic when green turning.<\/p>\n

While I hate failures I do like to learn lessons that I can carry forward and that chance is coming up quickly as I currently have three pecan blanks drying after being green turned and some green persimmon on the way. I am reluctant to acquire much new wood, and if you saw my inventory you would understand why, but when I find an unusual or rare species, especially one I know I like, I might well undertake to turn it green and hope for the best down the line when it comes time to do the finish turning. Most recently this has been the case with 7 Persimmon bowl blanks, 8″ x 2″, that will arrive via UPS on Monday, April 6, from Florida and the three Pecan blanks already mentioned. Persimmon is a true Ebony, although even large trees are likely to have very little of the pitch black heartwood, but sometimes there are heartwood inclusions in the sapwood that increases interest. And as a true Ebony, Persimmon is quite hard and turns beautifully, however, it is very difficult to find Persimmon for sale since it isn’t a true commercial species, nor is Pecan. I happened upon these blanks by chance and I bought them. Perhaps needless to say, come Monday I am in for a round of green turning and sealing. I know from experience that Persimmon moves a great deal so I will turn the blanks quite thick and do more cutting later instead of running the risk of cutting out too much green. Pecan has a volumetric shrinkage of 13.6 which is within the average range but I still left those blanks plenty thick.<\/p>\n

While I am still not a fan of green turning I think my experience and skills will improve moving forward. I have tried to think of other methods for preserving the upcoming Persimmon blanks aside from green turning since I know they will move a great deal and the only other method I can think of is to remove all of the existing wax, re-seal the uncut blanks in Anchor Seal, and wait for, potentially, years before turning it to final. Instead I am going to green turn them and try an experiment to help move toward an answer to a question I am curious about; which is better, Anchor Seal or glue as a sealant? My experience with the glue has been that it allows for a fairly rapid drying while still preventing any checks, but I wonder if that is contributing to the amount of movement and the difficulty in getting clean cuts, and the consequent extraordinary sanding required, on a normally easy wood like Cherry? My experience with Anchor Seal, but with different species, is that it makes for a slower dry, also with no checks, but I want to see if the movement is less and therefore the final turning easier. Using both products on the same species cut from the same tree might lead to some interesting insights. Stay tuned to find out.<\/p>\n<\/body><\/html>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"