{"id":968,"date":"2015-07-03T04:00:19","date_gmt":"2015-07-03T08:00:19","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.woodturningpens.com\/?p=968"},"modified":"2015-07-03T04:00:19","modified_gmt":"2015-07-03T08:00:19","slug":"end-milling","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.woodturningpens.com\/end-milling\/","title":{"rendered":"End Milling \u2013 Step 5"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
In a previous post<\/a>, I wrote about many of the general characteristics of working with Corian as a pen making material. That post came about as a result of a project in which I decided to make a batch of 36 pens using Corian blanks and Slimline pen kits from two vendors: Woodcraft<\/a> and Craft Supply USA<\/a>. The kits were essentially identical, although there was an extremely slight difference in the length of the brass tubes. This difference had no effect in the assembly of the pens however as the blanks were mixed by accident although I had kept the blanks for each manufacturer separate initially. So goes one of the risks of a shared shop space. My motive in making this batch of pens was simply to use the kits. I had purchased them years before and as I had the kits and I had the Corian I went with it. I don’t have any more Slimline pen kits but I still have a great deal of Corian, so mission partially accomplished. In what will be a series of 9 consecutive posts, I intend to discuss in detail each discrete step in the process of making this batch of Corian pens. I hope you enjoy this in-depth look at the pen making process in general, and the use of Corian as a material in specific.<\/p>\n Once the glue has dried and the brass tubes are completely secure, it is time to mill both ends of the blanks. The purpose of end milling is to ensure that the ends of the blank are absolutely square and flat. This allows the pen hardware to fit correctly and flush with the blanks. End milling is an essential step in the pen making process. Of course, every step has to be completed correctly but I stress the importance of end milling because if the milling is not done correctly and completely, no matter how wonderfully the pen maker completes every other step, the pen will either not work or it will be ugly.<\/p>\n There are several methods that can be employed for end milling. One method that doesn’t require otherwise specialty tools is to use a belt or disc sander. The ends of the blank are simply sanded down until flat. In theory, provided you have a belt\/disc sander, this sounds easy. But, I have tried it and it was a disaster. Unless the table on your belt sander is 100% flat and steady this method is hazardous at best. Even if the belt sander has been positioned in the downward position and the blank is held down from above, instead of from the side, the less than perfect flatness of the sand paper itself can damage your blank beyond repair. I know this because I have had it happen with a pink ivory blank, no less. Now, if you are using this method successfully, then feel free to claim I am full of dog poop and move on. However, I personally don’t trust this method and mention it here as something to avoid.<\/a><\/p>\n The best, and in my experience, correct way to end mill pen blanks is with an end mill tool. This small tool comes in two parts; the cutter head and the shaft. The cutter head is attached to the shaft with a small screw that is turned with an equally small Allen wrench or hex key. Because the cutter head is intended to cut the blank material, I routinely sharpen my cutter heads with small handled diamond sharpening plates. The process is quick, easy, and I think essential. A dull cutter head could simply rip you nice blank apart before you even have a chance to mount it on the lathe. All cutting tools, unless the bits or blades are replaceable, must be kept sharp at all times to prevent injury to you and\/or disaster for your materials.<\/p>\nThe Purpose of End Milling<\/h2>\n
End Milling Methods – Belt\/Disc Sander<\/h2>\n
The End Mill Tool<\/h2>\n