{"id":984,"date":"2015-07-18T04:00:23","date_gmt":"2015-07-18T08:00:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.woodturningpens.com\/?p=984"},"modified":"2015-07-18T04:00:23","modified_gmt":"2015-07-18T08:00:23","slug":"polishing-corian","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.woodturningpens.com\/polishing-corian\/","title":{"rendered":"Polishing the Corian Blanks"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
In a previous post<\/a>, I wrote about many of the general characteristics of working with Corian as a pen making material. That post came about as a result of a project in which I decided to make a batch of 36 pens using Corian blanks and Slimline pen kits from two vendors: Woodcraft<\/a> and Craft Supply USA<\/a>. The kits were essentially identical, although there was an extremely slight difference in the length of the brass tubes. This difference had no effect in the assembly of the pens however as the blanks were mixed by accident although I had kept the blanks for each manufacturer separate initially. So goes one of the risks of a shared shop space. My motive in making this batch of pens was simply to use the kits. I had purchased them years before and as I had the kits and I had the Corian I went with it. I don’t have any more Slimline pen kits but I still have a great deal of Corian, so mission partially accomplished. In what will be a series of 9 consecutive posts, I intend to discuss in detail each discrete step in the process of making this batch of Corian pens. I hope you enjoy this in-depth look at the pen making process in general, and the use of Corian as a material in specific.<\/p>\n I noted in the previous post that I achieve great results with the turning tools I use to turn the Corian and that only minimal sanding is required. While that is absolutely true, I do still do some finish sanding to ensure that I have the highest gloss finish possible. I have never had to start with anything lower than 220 grit and even that is probably harsher than I require. I follow that with 320, 400, 600, and finally 800 in traditional paper disc formats. I am a bit obsessive about the final sanding finish and these are the grits I work down to with any and all wood projects, pens and bowls included, as well.<\/p>\n With plastics, I go a good deal further to ensure a high gloss finish and an excellent hand feel. I use a 9 grade micro-polish system as well. I have micro-sanding equipment in two formats: pads and small cloths that can be used with a larger pad. For the pens, I use the pad system, which is color-coded for clarity<\/a> should the pads get out of order. The pads progress from 1,500 grit down to 12,000 grit for the final polish sanding. As you would expect, these grits are very fine and you can’t really feel much past the first pad, but I do notice a difference as I work my way through them all. There are several variants on the market, produced by different manufacturers. One system that I have employs half the number of pads by placing different grits on each side, but I personally find that more confusing and you have half as much micro-sanding capability in the end anyway. I don’t use the sheets with pen making because I find it that the sheets grab on to the blank quite easily.<\/p>\n You can use the micro-sanding pads or sheets with water for a wet sanding as well, and some who work extensively with acrylics recommend this. I have not noticed that I achieve a greater finish when wet sanding, so I don’t mess with it anymore. If you do elect to use wet sanding, be absolutely certain that you thoroughly dry all lathe, or other tool, surfaces that might have come into contact with water. I once had my entire band saw table turn rust-red just from the high humidity in the air where I live. Tool surface, including lathe beds, are not rust-proof and any moisture can ruin them. I wipe up all water spills immediately and then I follow that with an application of a commercial tool saver spray that lubricates and removes any traces of moisture or rust. You can also use acetone for a wipe down as the acetone, readily available by the gallon cheaply in any paint supply store or section of a larger home improvement or hardware store, will evaporate very quickly. This acetone method is often used in laboratory glassware cleaning where all traces of water must be removed.<\/p>\n Once I have run through all the grades of micro-sanding pads, I am ready for the final preparation step, polishing.<\/p>\nFinish Sanding<\/h2>\n
Micro-Sanding<\/h2>\n
Wet Sanding<\/h2>\n